A Cathedral Older Than Its Stones
A Christian community has gathered on this site since the early centuries of the Church in Assisi, beginning with a small basilica built over a Roman cistern in the years following the witness of Saint Rufinus. The present cathedral was raised in the 12th century, with its Romanesque facade attributed in tradition to the master Giovanni da Gubbio, and consecrated in 1253 by Pope Innocent IV. The interior was remodelled in the 16th century in a sober late Renaissance style, but the facade, the crypt, and the relic shrine of Saint Rufinus preserve the older layers of the cathedral's life. Saint Francis was baptized here in 1182, according to long-standing local tradition, and Saint Clare in 1194. Both grew up within sight of the cathedral piazza and would have known its bells, its bishop, and its sacramental life as their parish before they became the saints of Assisi.
The Romanesque facade is the cathedral's most striking feature, with three carved portals, three rose windows, and a band of carved figures and lions that read like a small theological program. The interior was reworked in the 16th century by Galeazzo Alessi, giving the nave its present sober proportions while leaving the facade and the crypt intact. The baptismal font stands near the entrance in the right aisle; the high altar covers the sarcophagus traditionally venerated as that of Saint Rufinus.
San Rufino is not a Franciscan basilica. It is the parish and cathedral church of the city, kept as a place of sacramental life and episcopal worship rather than as a pilgrimage stop alone. This gives the cathedral a different rhythm from the basilicas of Francis and Clare, and is part of why it matters to a serious Assisi pilgrimage.